Hollywood Before Glamour

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• Author : M. Tolini Finamore
• Publisher : Springer
• Release Date : 2013-01-28
• Total pages : 246
• ISBN : 9780230389496
• File Size : 21,5 Mb
• Total Download : 240
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Download Hollywood Before Glamour in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

This exploration of fashion in American silent film offers fresh perspectives on the era preceding the studio system, and the evolution of Hollywood's distinctive brand of glamour. By the 1910s, the moving image was an integral part of everyday life and communicated fascinating, but as yet un-investigated, ideas and ideals about fashionable dress.

• Author : Tom Lisanti
• Publisher : McFarland
• Release Date : 2013-03-01
• Total pages : 252
• ISBN : 9781476612416
• File Size : 18,9 Mb
• Total Download : 949
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Download Glamour Girls of Sixties Hollywood in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

During the 1960s, many models, Playboy centerfolds, beauty queens, and Las Vegas showgirls went on to become “decorative actresses” appearing scantily clad on film and television. This well illustrated homage to 75 of these glamour girls reveals their unique stories through individual biographical profiles, photographs, lists of major credits and, frequently, in-depth personal interviews. Included are Carol Wayne, Edy Williams, Inga Neilsen, Thordis Brandt, Jo Collins, Phyllis Davis, Melodie Johnson, and many equally unforgettable faces of sixties Hollywood.

• Author : Adrienne L. McLean
• Publisher : Rutgers University Press
• Release Date : 2016-10-07
• Total pages : 272
• ISBN : 9780813572970
• File Size : 43,5 Mb
• Total Download : 954
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Download Costume, Makeup, and Hair in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

Movie buffs and film scholars alike often overlook the importance of makeup artists, hair stylists, and costumers. With precious few but notable exceptions, creative workers in these fields have received little public recognition, even when their artistry goes on to inspire worldwide fashion trends. From the acclaimed Behind the Silver Screen series, Costume, Makeup, and Hair charts the development of these three crafts in the American film industry from the 1890s to the present. Each chapter examines a different era in film history, revealing how the arts of cinematic costume, makeup, and hair, have continually adapted to new conditions, making the transitions from stage to screen, from monochrome to color, and from analog to digital. Together, the book’s contributors give us a remarkable glimpse into how these crafts foster creative collaboration and improvisation, often fashioning striking looks and ingenious effects out of limited materials. Costume, Makeup, and Hair not only considers these crafts in relation to a wide range of film genres, from sci-fi spectacles to period dramas, but also examines the role they have played in the larger marketplace for fashion and beauty products. Drawing on rare archival materials and lavish color illustrations, this volume provides readers with both a groundbreaking history of film industry labor and an appreciation of cinematic costume, makeup, and hairstyling as distinct art forms.

• Author : Denise Amy Baxter
• Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
• Release Date : 2018-11-01
• Total pages : 288
• ISBN : 9781350114074
• File Size : 52,8 Mb
• Total Download : 340
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Download A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

During the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries the production of dress shifted dramatically from being predominantly hand-crafted in small quantities to machine-manufactured in bulk. The increasing democratization of appearances made new fashions more widely available, but at the same time made the need to differentiate social rank seem more pressing. In this age of empire, the coding of class, gender and race was frequently negotiated through dress in complex ways, from fashionable dress which restricted or exaggerated the female body to liberating reform dress, from self-defining black dandies to the oppressions and resistances of slave dress. Richly illustrated with over 100 images and drawing on a plethora of visual, textual and object sources, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.

• Author : Eugenia Paulicelli,Veronica Manlow,Elizabeth Wissinger
• Publisher : Routledge
• Release Date : 2021-09-19
• Total pages : 532
• ISBN : 9780429554964
• File Size : 43,8 Mb
• Total Download : 459
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Download The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

This collection of original essays interrogates disciplinary boundaries in fashion, gathering fashion studies research across disciplines and from around the globe. Fashion and clothing are part of material and visual culture, cultural memory, and heritage; they contribute to shaping the way people see themselves, interact, and consume. For each of the volume’s eight parts, scholars from across the world and a variety of disciplines offer analytical tools for further research. Never neglecting the interconnectedness of disciplines and domains, these original contributions survey specific topics and critically discuss the leading views in their areas. They include discursive and reflective pieces, as well as discussions of original empirical work, and contributors include established leaders in the field, rising stars, and new voices, including practioner and industry voices. This is a comprehensive overview of the field, ideal not only for undergraduate and postgraduate fashion studies students, but also for researchers and students in communication studies, the humanities, gender and critical race studies, social sciences, and fashion design and business.

• Author : Mark A. Vieira
• Publisher : Running Press
• Release Date : 2013-11-12
• Total pages : 416
• ISBN : 9780762450695
• File Size : 46,6 Mb
• Total Download : 341
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Download George Hurrell's Hollywood in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

George Hurrell (1904–1992) was the creator of the Hollywood glamour portrait. Before his arrival, movie star portraits were “soft focus” and undistinguished, derivative of the Main Street USA portrait salon. The maverick artist instituted a sharp, dramatic look and captured movie stars of the most exalted era in Hollywood history with bold contrast and seductive poses. This lavishly illustrated book spans Hurrell's entire career, from his beginnings as a society photographer to his finale as the celebrity photographer who was himself a celebrity, a living legend. From 1929 to 1944 Hurrell was the “Rembrandt of Hollywood,” creating portraits of Marlene Dietrich, Norma Shearer, Bette Davis, Carole Lombard, and Joan Crawford that were a blend of the ethereal and the erotic. His photos of Jane Russell sulking in a haystack made the unknown girl a star—and without a film credit to her name. He immortalized leading males stars of the day from the Barrymores to Clark Gable to Gary Cooper. Latter photo shoots magnified the glamour of the likes of Warren Beatty and Sharon Stone. Through newly acquired photos and in-depth research, photographer and historian Mark A. Vieira, author of Hurrell's Hollywood Portraits, offers not only a wealth of new images but a compelling sequel to the story presented in his earlier book on Hurrell. Hurrell was himself a star—rich, famous, fulfilled. Then, at the height of his career, he suffered a vertiginous fall from grace. George Hurrell's Hollywood recounts, for the first time anywhere, Hurrell's return from the ashes—how movie-still collectors and art dealers pulled the elderly artist into a smoky half-world of theft and fraud; how his undiminished powers gave him a second career; and how his mercurial nature nearly destroyed it. The photographs that motivate this tale are luminous, powerful, and timeless. This book showcases more than four hundred, most of which have not been published since they were created. George Hurrell's Hollywood is the ultimate work on this trailblazing artist, a fabulous montage of fact and anecdote, light and shadow. The book includes a foreword by Hurrell's final camera subject, Sharon Stone. Some of George Hurrell's subjects: Mae West, Carole Lombard, Mary Pickford, Tyrone Power, Joan Crawford, Norma Shearer, Lon Chaney, Greta Garbo, Myrna Loy, William Powell, Bette Davis, Errol Flynn, Jean Harlow, Veronica Lake, Clark Gable, Marlene Dietrich, John Garfield, Humphrey Bogart, Gary Cooper, Fred Astaire, Rita Hayworth, Liza Minnelli, Natalie Wood, Bette Midler, Lily Tomlin, John Travolta, Farrah Fawcett, Diana Ross, Neil Diamond, Raquel Welch, Sharon Stone, Warren Beatty, and many more!

• Author : Kyle Stevens
• Publisher : Oxford University Press
• Release Date : 2022
• Total pages : 713
• ISBN : 9780190873929
• File Size : 55,6 Mb
• Total Download : 229
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Download The Oxford Handbook of Film Theory in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

Despite changes in the media landscape, film remains a vital force in contemporary culture, as do our ideas of what "a movie" or "the cinematic" are. Indeed, we might say that the category of film now only exists in theory. Whereas film-theoretical discussion at the turn of the 21st century was preoccupied, understandably, by digital technology's permeation of virtually all aspects of the film object, this volume moves the conversation away from a focus on film's materiality towards timely questions concerning the ethics, politics, and even aesthetics of thinking about the medium of cinema. To put it another way, this collection narrows in on the subject of film, not with a nostalgic sensibility, but with the recognition that what constitutes a film is historically contingent, in dialogue with the vicissitudes of entertainment, art, and empire. The volume is divided into six sections: Meta-Theory; Film Theory's Project of Emancipation; Apparatus and Perception; Audiovisuality; How Close is Close Reading?; and The Turn to Experience.

• Author : Michelle Tolini Finamore
• Publisher : University of Arkansas Press
• Release Date : 2022-10-10
• Total pages : 185
• ISBN : 9781610757850
• File Size : 41,7 Mb
• Total Download : 428
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Download Fashioning America in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

The companion volume to Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art’s first fashion exhibition, Fashioning America: Grit to Glamour celebrates the history of American attire, from the cowboy boot to the zoot suit. From dresses worn by First Ladies to art-inspired garments to iconic moments in fashion that defined a generation, Fashioning America showcases uniquely American expressions of innovation, spotlighting stories of designers and wearers that center on opportunity and self-invention, and amplifying the voices of those who are often left out of dominant fashion narratives. With nearly one hundred illustrations of garments and accessories that span two centuries of design, Fashioning America celebrates the achievements of a wide array of makers—especially immigrants, Native Americans, and Black Americans. Incorporating essays by fashion historians, curators, and journalists, this volume takes a fresh look at the country’s fashion history while exploring its close relationship with Hollywood and media in general, illuminating the role that American designers have played in shaping global visual culture and demonstrating why American fashion has long resonated around the world.

• Author : Melissa U. D. Goldsmith,Paige A. Willson,Anthony J. Fonseca
• Publisher : Rowman & Littlefield
• Release Date : 2016-10-07
• Total pages : 486
• ISBN : 9781442269873
• File Size : 55,6 Mb
• Total Download : 450
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Download The Encyclopedia of Musicians and Bands on Film in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

Musicians, both fictional and real, have long been subjects of cinema. From biopics of composers Beethoven and Mozart to the rise (and often fall) of imaginary bands in The Commitments and Almost Famous, music of all types has inspired hundreds of films. The Encyclopedia of Musicians and Bands on Film features the most significant productions from around the world, including straightforward biographies, rockumentaries, and even the occasional mockumentary. The wide-ranging scope of this volume allows for the inclusion of films about fictional singers and bands, with emphasis on a variety of themes: songwriter–band relationships, the rise and fall of a career, music saving the day, the promoter’s point of view, band competitions, the traveling band, and rock-based absurdity. Among the films discussed in this book are Amadeus, The Blues Brothers, The Buddy Holly Story, The Commitments, Dreamgirls, The Glenn Miller Story, A Hard Day’s Night, I’m Not There, Jailhouse Rock, A Mighty Wind, Ray, ’Round Midnight, The Runaways, School of Rock, That Thing You Do!, and Walk the Line. With entries that span the decades and highlight a variety of music genres, The Encyclopedia of Musicians and Bands on Film is a valuable resource for moviegoers and music lovers alike, as well as scholars of both film and music.

• Author : Pat Kirkham,Sarah A. Lichtman
• Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
• Release Date : 2021-03-11
• Total pages : 368
• ISBN : 9781350150607
• File Size : 52,9 Mb
• Total Download : 351
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Download Screen Interiors in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

Covering everything from Hollywood films to Soviet cinema, London's queer spaces to spaceships, horror architecture and action scenes, Screen Interiors presents an array of innovative perspectives on film design. Essays address questions related to interiors and objects in film and television from the early 1900s up until the present day. Authors explore how interior film design can facilitate action and amplify tensions, how rooms are employed as structural devices and how designed spaces can contribute to the construction of identities. Case studies look at disjunctions between interior and exterior design and the inter-relationship of production design and narrative. With a lens on class, sexuality and identity across a range of films including Twilight of a Woman's Soul (1913), The Servant (1963), Caravaggio (1986), and Passengers (2016), and illustrated with film stills throughout, Screen Interiors showcases an array of methodological approaches for the study of film and design history.

• Author : Julia A. Stern
• Publisher : University of Chicago Press
• Release Date : 2022-01-19
• Total pages : 279
• ISBN : 9780226813868
• File Size : 54,7 Mb
• Total Download : 365
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Download Bette Davis Black and White in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

Introduction: Black and white -- Little Foxes and little brown wrens -- The poetics of color in Jezebel -- Melodramas of blood in In This Our Life -- The whiteness of What Ever Happened to Baby Jane? -- Bette Davis black and white.

• Author : Stephen Sharot
• Publisher : Springer
• Release Date : 2016-11-18
• Total pages : 273
• ISBN : 9783319417998
• File Size : 14,8 Mb
• Total Download : 978
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Download Love and Marriage Across Social Classes in American Cinema in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

This book is the first comprehensive and systematic study of cross-class romance films throughout the history of American cinema. It provides vivid discussions of these romantic films, analyses their normative patterns and thematic concerns, traces how they were shaped by inequalities of gender and class in American society, and explains why they were especially popular from World War I through the roaring twenties and the Great Depression. In the vast majority of cross-class romance films the female is poor or from the working class, the male is wealthy or from the upper class, and the romance ends successfully in marriage or the promise of marriage.

• Author : Diana W. Anselmo
• Publisher : Univ of California Press
• Release Date : 2023-02-07
• Total pages : 279
• ISBN : 9780520971295
• File Size : 46,6 Mb
• Total Download : 388
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Download A Queer Way of Feeling in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

A Queer Way of Feeling gathers an unexplored archive of fan-made scrapbooks, letters, diaries, and photographs to explore how girls coming of age in the United States in the 1910s used cinema to forge a foundational language of female nonconformity, intimacy, and kinship. Pasting cross-dressed photos into personal scrapbooks and making love to movie actresses in epistolary writing, girl fans from all walks of life stitched together established homoerotic conventions with an emergent syntax of film stardom to make sense of feeling "queer" or "different from the norm." These material testimonies show how a forgotten audience engendered terminologies, communities, and creative practices that became cornerstones of media fan reception and queer belonging.

• Author : Sarah Street,Joshua Yumibe
• Publisher : Columbia University Press
• Release Date : 2019-04-02
• Total pages : 347
• ISBN : 9780231542289
• File Size : 47,7 Mb
• Total Download : 295
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Download Chromatic Modernity in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

The era of silent film, long seen as black and white, has been revealed in recent scholarship as bursting with color. Yet the 1920s remain thought of as a transitional decade between early cinema and the rise of Technicolor—despite the fact that new color technologies used in film, advertising, fashion, and industry reshaped cinema and consumer culture. In Chromatic Modernity, Sarah Street and Joshua Yumibe provide a revelatory history of how the use of color in film during the 1920s played a key role in creating a chromatically vibrant culture. Focusing on the final decade of silent film, Street and Yumibe portray the 1920s as a pivotal and profoundly chromatic period of cosmopolitan exchange, collaboration, and experimentation in and around cinema. Chromatic Modernity explores contemporary debates over color’s artistic, scientific, philosophical, and educational significance. It examines a wide range of European and American films, including Opus 1 (1921), L’Inhumaine (1923), Die Nibelungen (1924), The Phantom of the Opera (1925), The Lodger (1927), Napoléon (1927), and Dracula (1932). A comprehensive, comparative study that situates film among developments in art, color science, and industry, Chromatic Modernity reveals the role of color cinema in forging new ways of looking at and experiencing the modern world.

• Author : Anne H. Hoy
• Publisher : Unknown
• Release Date : 2011
• Total pages : 0
• ISBN : 1605830356
• File Size : 43,9 Mb
• Total Download : 966
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Download Silver Screen, Silver Prints in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

Long before a hopeful actor was given a screen test, their portraits were taken to determine the camera appeal of new faces. Silver Screen Silver Prints showcases Hollywood's invention of the glamour portrait, representing the distinctive styles of such photographers as George Hurrell, Clarence Sinclair Bull, and Ruth Harriet Louise and charting the evolution from soft-focus Pictorialism to sculptured modernist glamor. Thematic sections focus on Hollywood fashion as promoted by photography and on the development of the discernible Paramount Studios house style. Photographs of iconic actors, including Greta Garbo, Joan Crawford, and Ramon Novarro, show how the portrait camera lens shaped their most enduring images. Elizabeth Taylor, the last great star of the Hollywood studio system, who used photography strategically to guide an upward trajectory from her early days as a child actress to her long reign as an international superstar, is featured. Taken together, the photographs in this catalogue, published in connection with the 2011 Grolier Club exhibition, demonstrate the centrality of studio portraits to the film industry's star-making apparatus, especially in the two decades before the Second World War.

• Author : Jonathan Faiers,Mary Westerman Bulgarella
• Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
• Release Date : 2016-11-17
• Total pages : 256
• ISBN : 9781474273718
• File Size : 11,6 Mb
• Total Download : 608
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Download Colors in Fashion in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

Color speaks a powerful cultural language, conveying political, sexual, and economic messages that, throughout history, have revealed how we relate to ourselves and our world. This ground-breaking compilation is the first to investigate how color in fashionable and ceremonial dress has played a significant social role, indicating acceptance and exclusion, convention and subversion. From the use of white in pioneering feminism to the penchant for black in post-war France, and from mystical scarlet broadcloth to the horrors of arsenic-laden green fashion, this publication demonstrates that color in dress is as mutable, nuanced, and varied as color itself. Divided into four thematic parts – solidarity, power, innovation, and desire – each section highlights the often violent, emotional histories of color in dress across geographical, temporal and cultural boundaries. Underlying today's relaxed attitude to color lies a chromatic complexity that speaks of wars, migrations and economics. While acknowledging the importance that technology has played in the development of new dyes, the chapters explore color as a catalyst for technical innovation that continues to inspire designers, artists, and performers. Bringing together cutting-edge contributions from leading scholars, it is essential reading for academics of fashion, textiles, design, cultural studies and art history.

• Author : Lora Ann Sigler
• Publisher : McFarland
• Release Date : 2019-06-20
• Total pages : 235
• ISBN : 9781476634418
• File Size : 43,7 Mb
• Total Download : 797
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Download Medieval Art and the Look of Silent Film in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

 The heyday of silent film soon became quaint with the arrival of “talkies.” As early as 1929, critics and historians were writing of the period as though it were the distant past. Much of the literature on the silent era focuses on its filmic art—ambiance and psychological depth, the splendor of the sets and costumes—yet overlooks the inspiration behind these. This book explores the Middle Ages as the prevailing influence on costume and set design in silent film and a force in fashion and architecture of the era. In the wake of World War I, designers overthrew the artifice of prewar style and manners and drew upon what seemed a nobler, purer age to create an ambiance that reflected higher ideals.

• Author : Simon Bliss
• Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing USA
• Release Date : 2018-11-15
• Total pages : 232
• ISBN : 9781501326813
• File Size : 31,9 Mb
• Total Download : 414
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Download Jewellery in the Age of Modernism 1918-1940 in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

Why has jewellery and body adornment often been marginalized in studies of modernist art and design? This study explores the relationship between jewellery, modernism and modernity from the 'jazz age' to the second world war in order to challenge the view that these portable art forms have only a minor role to play in histories of modernism. From the masterworks of the Parisian jewellery houses to the film and photography of Man Ray, this study seeks to present jewellery in a new light, where issues of representation and display are considered to be as important in the creation of a modern 'jewellery culture' as the objects themselves. Drawing on material from museums, archives, contemporary journals, memoirs, literary and theoretical texts, this study shows how the emergence of modern jewellery began to seriously question conventional notions of body adornment.

• Author : Sonya Abrego
• Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
• Release Date : 2022-11-03
• Total pages : 395
• ISBN : 9781350147683
• File Size : 55,7 Mb
• Total Download : 390
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Download Westernwear in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

During the prosperous, forward-thinking era after the Second World War, a growing number of men, women, and children across the United States were wearing fashions that evoked the Old West. Westernwear: Postwar American Fashion and Culture examines why a sartorial style with origins in 19th-century agrarian traditions continued to be worn at a time when American culture sought balance between technocratic confidence in science and technology on one side, and fear and anxiety over global annihilation on the other. By analysing well-known and rarely considered western manufacturers, Westernwear revises the common perception that fashionable innovation came from the East coast and places western youth cultures squarely back in the picture. The book connects the history of American working class dress with broader fashionable trends and discusses how and why Native American designs and representations of Native American people were incorporated broadly and inconsistently into the western visual vocabulary. Setting westernwear firmly in context, Sonya Abrego addresses the incorporation of this iconic style into postwar wardrobes and popular culture, and charts the evolution of westernwear into a modern fashion phenomenon.

• Author : Tiziana Ferrero-Regis,Marissa Lindquist
• Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
• Release Date : 2020-12-10
• Total pages : 264
• ISBN : 9781350101845
• File Size : 15,6 Mb
• Total Download : 185
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Download Staging Fashion in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

The fashion show and its spaces are sites of otherness, representing everything from rebellion and excess through to political and social activism. This conceptual and stylistic variety is reflected in the spaces they occupy, whether they are staged in an industrial warehouse, on a city street, or out in the open landscape. Staging Fashion is the first collection of essays about the presentation and staging of fashion in runway shows in the period from the 1960s to the 2010s. It offers a fresh perspective on the many collaborations between artists, architects and interior designers to reinforce their interdisciplinary links. Fashion, architecture and interiors share many elements, including design, history, material culture, aesthetics and trends. The research and ideas underpinning Staging Fashion address how fashion and the spatial fields have collaborated in the creation of the space of the fashion show. The 15 essays are written by fashion, interior, architecture and design scholars focusing on the presentation of fashion within the runway space, from avant-garde practices and collaboration with artists, to the most spectacular and commercial shows of recent years, from Prada to Chanel.

• Author : Lucy Moyse Ferreira
• Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
• Release Date : 2021-12-02
• Total pages : 240
• ISBN : 9781350126305
• File Size : 33,7 Mb
• Total Download : 140
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Download Danger in the Path of Chic in PDF, Epub, and Kindle

During the interwar years, a proliferation of violence encroached upon the glossy, idealistic world of fashion: from the curiously common appearance of dismembered heads in fashion illustration, to seemingly torturous techniques and devices advertised by beauty imagery, even extending to garments designed to look assaulted and destroyed. Danger in the Path of Chic brings this disturbing imagery to light for the first time, proposing new directions for historians of fashion, violence and culture in the interwar years. Concentrating on London, Paris and New York as fashion centres and political allies, the volume explores why horror manifested itself in this way, at this time, and in a sphere that is usually perceived as being built on fantasy and escape. In doing so, Danger in the Path of Chic situates fashion within the very real social, psychological, economic and political traumas of the period.